Lets start with step 1. You’ll have to effectively cast the fly to the fish before you can catch him. If you cast your fly line over their backs they will spook and though some fish will eat directly after you do this my experience with snook is, they will not. Snook are very weary and cautious. I set my skiff up for a 45 to 90 degree cast if I can. In most cases I advise my clients to cast up current a few feet in front of the fish (only letting the leader roll out in front of the fish), not the fly line; and let the fly drift back towards the fish.
Ok, your probably wondering why I specify Palm Beach right? It may sound weird but fish in different areas and different habitats are looking for different foods and actions. In Palm Beach we primarily fish snook sitting near structure, in current, facing upstream, waiting for their next meal to be swept in front of them. Snook in the Everglades for example may be sitting on a shallow muddy bank soaking up some sun rays. Each scenario the fly might vary and the approach and the ‘‘feed’’ may vary. Ok, back to the end of step 1; you’ve got your fly drifting at a 45 to 90 degree angle as the current moves it closer to the fish I advise my angler to do short medium to fast ticks in order to get the attention of the fish. You will know when the fish tunes into your fly. He will suddenly move in line with it and move up to investigate. As soon as the fish does this, I tell my angler to just start stripping the fly as fast as they can back to the boat and not to slow down.
Now you are stripping your fly back to the skiff as fast as you can and the fish is right behind it giving chase with his nose 1 inch behind the fly. You watch him eat! Don’t panic. I always tell my angler to keep the rod tip down a few inches from the water pointed in the direction of the fly. Never lift your rod tip, (we all know this but are likely still guilty.. haha). Just keep on stripping at the same pace until he comes tight. Now you have leverage. You will need it!
You’ve come tight with your rod pointed at the fish with no slack in the line. Now you lift. The snook will most likely try to turn and run directly to the closest structure (in our case a dock piling). Keep your rod tip low. You will in most cases have to fight the fish on the rod and not use the reel. Do your best to keep the fish tight, giving him no slack. When lines go slack fish spit hooks. Fishing so close to structure our fly outfits are 7-8wt but the weakest link in the line is 25-30lb. If you have to horse a fish go ahead and horse him away from the dock. Once the fish has attempted to run to the dock with no luck 2 or 3 times he will tire out. At this point you can reel up the slack and get him on the reel to finish up. Net, a quick picture, and send him/her back home! Sight fishing snook here never gets old and I thoroughly enjoy putting people on them as much as I like to fish them myself! Especially their first snook!
If you are interested in Fly Fishing or Light Tackle Fishing with a professional inshore saltwater fly fishing guide in Palm Beach or the surrounding areas, visit www.flyfishingpalmbeach.com or www.oracleexpeditions.com to reserve your date!
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Cobia have an enormous appetite and quench it with a good deal of fresh prey. Any normal bait you used to tackle other species will work. However, cobia are different and love to prey on some specialized meals as well that you should use when targeting them.
Cut open a cobias stomach and the most food you will find is crabs. They are the most eaten prey of cobia and the most used bait for cobia. You can even use artificial crabs, but without a doubt, the live ones will produce more.
Use the crabs however necessary to get in front of the cobias. Floating in current, sight fishing, or sinking them down to reefs. As long as you get it in their face it will be hard for any cobia nearby to refuse.
It’s hard to find a game-fish that won’t eat a shrimp, including cobia. This is a great go-to bait because of the price and availability of shrimp and its universal use. Shrimp is so easy to rig and quickly get out in front of an approaching cobia.
Unlike crabs, there’s no hard shell to penetrate when rigging. When time is of the essence, this makes a difference. Use the shrimps just as you would a crab just be a little more cautious when casting as they fly off hooks easier.
Cobia and mullet are no strangers. They follow each other when moving throughout the year. It’s no coincidence that cobia eat an easily presented meal of mullet. Whether live bait or artificial, anything resembling a mullet will get devoured.
A good paddle tail works in a pinch and when you’re running low on bait, you can even use the mullet as cut bait for cobia. Nothing works better than live baitfish. What’s best about mullet is there easy to find and catch yourself with a cast net.
Pinfish are also a great live bait for cobia. Use them the same way you would use mullet. Pinfish are sometimes better when sight fishing for cobia, but your mileage may vary. Mostly if they will eat the mullet, they will eat the pinfish too.
Plain and simple, cobia love eels. It’s as if they have a favorite dessert that they can’t resist whether they are hungry or full. Some bait shops will carry eels and in peak season, but they are pricey. I say it’s worth it, but not always necessary.
Use the eels just about anywhere for cobia but be cautious on reefs. They will still produce cobia however they often find there way into hiding as they do so well naturally. This can cause no bites and increased “stuck in the rocks”.
Catfish are a bit of a secret to the die-hard cobia fisherman. Like eels, they seem to be a cobias favorite snack that is irresistible more often than not. They take more work to catch and prep for safe use.
Once you get all the back end work complete, you have strong bait. You can cast catfish over and over, unlike mullet. If you’re not afraid of a little work catfish could easily become your favorite cobia bait after a single trip.
Next, learn the Best Tarpon Baits!
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Braided fishing line has the longest shelf life of all the line types. With a careful watch over it and some luck, braid could easily last you a decade. I say luck because we're talking about fishing and things happen all the time when you’re fishing regularly.
Braid loses its color, and a majority of people think of this as a sign that it's worn out and you need to replace it. However, this is false, the dye in braid just doesn't hold on well, it fades rather quick, but it says nothing to the integrity of your braid. Don’t give it a second thought, your braid is fine.
The most common things to eat at braid are chipped and sharp rod guides. You will not notice it but they could slowly eat away at your braid and causing you to pop off frequently. Also, check your reel for any abnormally sizeable gaps or sharp chipped edges on your bale.
If you want to double your braided lines life span, you can simply flip it on the reel. Any tackle shop can do this for you or you can do it yourself. Transfer the line onto any object or a spare reel if you have, then again onto another object or reel. Now when you spool it back onto your reel, your line will be ready to go.
The most popular type of fishing line is monofilament, also known as “mono.” This type of line is made of mostly nylon and synthetic fiber material, and is comprised of one long, continuous chord.
Because it is made of one strand of material, monofilament line has the capability to stretch when pulled. It is rated at different “tests” which indicate the amount of poundage the line can withstand before breaking.
The fishing line that is quickest to go bad is monofilament. It just doesn't thrive in the elements. UV rays eat at it much quicker than all other lines. The general suggestion is to swap our monofilament line once a year. However, this is subject to your use and abuse of your line.
If I was a captain or fishing multiple times a week, I would most likely be changing out my line before the year mark and maybe even twice a year. Weekend warriors could probably follow the year rule, and on a budget, you could probably even get away with more than a year.
Don’t wait too long though, saving a couple of bucks on cheap mono is not worth losing a trophy of a lifetime. We know they love to bite when we are least prepared so just stay ready. Like braid, be on top of your line always checking it plus your reel and guides for any sharp edges.
The life span of fluorocarbon is very similar to monofilament, just 3 - 4 times stronger. The same rules apply for care and maintenance. Even though it is stronger, there is a reason it mostly used for the leader which is usually constantly changed out so longevity isn’t much of an issue.
Fluorocarbon fishing line is also made up of one, continuous strand of line, but is composed of polyvinylidene fluoride, which makes it stronger than monofilament. However, fluorocarbon is very stiff, good for strength, but the added memory doesn't allow it to wrap around reels properly.
Casting and reeling can be funky with a full spool of fluorocarbon and it can often get crinkled or knotted easily. Not to mention it’s the most expensive of the 3 line materials. Stick to using it as a leader only.
Any line over a year old should raise suspicion, even braid. Constant use will open it to damage and fishing is expensive, and we have to pay to play. Be on top of your line! It will save you money in the long run. If you lose a fish to a popped line, it is time for deep inspection and possibly a new spool of line.
It’s always a good idea to keep an extra spool of fishing line with you in case you find yourself needing to respool your reel. However, keeping your extra line stored away doesn’t mean it has a longer shelf life.
In fact, monofilament or fluorocarbon fishing line that’s stored away will deteriorate within a year or two and will need to be replaced. For the longest shelf life, store your fishing lines in a cool dark place - away from uv rays - as much as possible.
Now that you’re all spooled up check out how to fish with live bait!
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The best part about fishing Flamingo is that there are fish everywhere. My best days have always been exploring unfamiliar areas. Plus, finding a spot of your own is much better than going to the well-known ones where you will have to fight for space.
It’s as simple as looking at google maps to see where all the flats are, or you can just head to the islands, every island has a flat around it. Check the tides, you’re looking for a depth of 6-18 inches and moving water.
The incomer and outgoer are equally as productive. However, just getting started in a new area fishing the incomer might be smarter. It’s best to learn how the tides work in an area and how skinny it gets so you don't risk getting stuck on a flat for a couple of hours.
After you find skinny, and moving water, you will find some grass. Mostly the grass is all dead but any bit of grass gives prey a place to hide and the fish will look there.
Also look for depth changes. Channel edges are great for blind casting, but sight fishing is where it's at, look for holes in the flats, you will see fish swimming in and out or crossing in between. The islands often have deeper moats around them where fish like to hide.
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Luckily, tarpon aren’t the pickiest eaters. They will eat just about anything you put in their face if they're hungry. More often than not, the ending of that phrase is the most important - if they’re hungry. You can do everything perfectly, and still, tarpon will often turn you down.
Because of that fact it is important, you do everything as close to perfection as you can to increase your odds of triggering eats. The following baits will have you well on your way to dominating the tarpon fishing game. Just don’t forget to bow to the king!
By far the easiest and most effective way to target tarpon will be to use live bait. They will eat shrimp, crabs, pinfish, mullet, and any other baitfish abundant in the area. If you’re catching live bait, I would go for mullet, easy to find and catch. Just about any size will do, 5-6 inches being the sweet spot.
If you will buy live bait, shrimp and crabs can be lethal. Both fit the same applications and seem to be my go-to. Crabs are great for floating in current and have a hard shell. However, you can move a shrimp more to get it into the right position without it looking unappealing or fake to clever tarpon when sight fishing.
Either of these will catch fish. Don’t be quick to rule out a method if the fish aren’t biting one day, it might not be, it could just be the wrong fish. You can use mullet and some other baitfish dead but won’t be as effective. The best approach may be to have a few of each on board to cover all the bases.
There are a bunch of lures that will trigger tarpon to eat. I will share with you the most popular that produce time and time again and I see in everyone's tackle bags nowadays.
DOA makes a few lures popular for bridge fishing big tarpon. The TerrorEyzand Bait Buster will have you wrapping around bridge pilings in no time. I have no tips for that, just hold on and pray.
Next up is the Hogy. This long, slender, very simple bait has made a lot of noise in the tarpon fishing community. For an excellent reason too, tarpon can't resist these simple baits because their shape gives them such a real-looking action. The best colors are black or purple for darker needs, and white or pink for lighter needs.
No lure suggestion is complete without a Gulp bait included. The Gulp Alive Swimming Mullet Jig fitted into a jig head is a beast. Tarpon love them some gulp and this jig has great tail action for bridges.
If you want to try your luck at experiencing one of the craziest topwater explosions, the Bomber Badonk-A-Donk should be your go-to. Tarpon destroy this bait, it is insane how aggressively they strike it sometimes. It won't produce the most bites, but it will produce the most fun bite.
The best tarpon fly for micros - any tarpon less than 40#s - is a gurgler. These are most effective in the early mornings while they are schooling up constantly rolling in an area. The little guys will go hard trying to smash a gurgler, often missing, but one will stick eventually. Pro tip - if they are missing a lot, use a smaller fly!
The most used tarpon fly is the tarpon roach. You can easily tie this fly with one material - hackle. You can spice it up with other materials but I choose not too. I like to throw this early in the season before the fish have seen thousands of them, or as a last resort if the fish are refusing everything else.
A newer variation that is gaining ranks quickly is the tarpon toad. Not the easiest to tie, but once you master figure 8 bodies, it’ll be a breeze. I like to keep the roaches in natural colors and the toads in brighter synthetic colors.
If you can figure out the timing of the yearly worm hatch, throwing a worm fly will be like heroin. Just cast and hold on!
Check out these new hooded performance fishing shirts with the radest tarpon logo I've ever seen!
]]>Ultraviolet Protection Factor or UPF is a measurement used to test and determine how many ultraviolet rays a fabric allows through. There are two types of UV radiation accounted for in UPF tests, UVA and UVB. These tests result in a UPF rating displayed on the clothing you buy, for example, you will see a tag or label stating UPF 50 or less.
So, what does that mean? A rating of UPF 50 shows that a clothing fabric allows only 1/50th of UVA and UVB rays through it. Without it, your skin will get 50 times more UV exposure. The higher the number, the better; a larger fraction means a smaller amount of light will pass through a fabric.
Now that we understand sun-protective clothing, how does UPF compare to SPF in sunblock? Sun Protection Factor or SPF is a measurement to determine how long it will take for someone to get sunburned. For example, SPF 20 means that it will take 20 times longer to get sunburned.
Let's say you take 5 minutes to get sunburned, but you applied a thorough layer of SPF 20 sunblock. This sunblock should protect you for 100 minutes. However, it is important to note that unlike UPF ratings that measure both UVA and UVB rays, SPF ratings only measure UVB.
Other problems you will find with sunblock and SPF ratings are that they come in many forms; thick creams, thin creams, and sprays. How do you know how much to put, and how do you know when to reapply? Worst of all is not applying an even amount and ending up with sunspots all over your skin.
UPF rated clothing easily solves these problems. My favorite solution of all was no longer needing to have sunscreen on my hands. Trying to fish with slippery hands is a hassle. Not to mention most sunblocks have dangerous chemicals in them that are ruining our coral reefs!
Believe me, UPF clothing is not a gimmick. After wearing these clothes for a few years, you will notice the difference. Once I started wearing UPF shirts, my torso went back to its normal color and then I noticed how dark my face and hands had gotten. That’s when I started fishing with buffs and gloves to cover my complete body from the sun while out on the water.
Proper care of your UPF rated clothing is the most important part of your protection. The first step, how to wash your UPF clothes? You want to use cold water and your machine's delicate or handwash cycle. Use no bleach or strong chemicals, you want to use very mild laundry detergent. Look for products that have no perfumes or dyes and say for soft skin or babies.
UPF rating will not get washed out. However, you must wash after every use of chlorine, which will damage the fibers if left to sit and dry in. It’s also imperative to rinse any potential stains out immediately from the inside out with cold water. If you rinse from the outside in or with hot water will just aid in the staining process.
The best method of drying is to lay it out on a towel overnight. However, if there is no time to do so, you can machine dry on the coolest setting and the most delicate setting. These simple care techniques will ensure the most life out of your favorite UPF garments.
Like any clothing, UPF clothing will last many, many years. However, how long will this advertised UPF rating hold? This is a very complex question and depends a great deal on how you care for the clothing. A fabric is said to hold it’sUPF rating for about 2 years of regular use.
We should adjust this based on your practice. If you fish once a week and cycle between a couple of shirts, you can probably account for well over 2 years of life. Inversely a fishing captain that guides multiple days a week might want to cycle through shirts yearly for the ultimate protection and longevity.
The main purpose of these countermeasures is to avoid stretched or fading fibers in the fabrics that will allow more sun through. Although this happens with all clothing materials and it is still fine to wear, you will want to get new UPF clothing when these signs of wear arise for the ultimate protection.
You can find my favorite UPF clothing here: Southern Fin Apparel. I love the new hooded fishing shirts specifically for sun protection; they are incredible, and I will never fish another day without one!
The key to using live bait is all in the presentation of the bait to the fish. If the bait is presented in the wrong way, or in a non-natural position an angler’s chances of catching the desired fish may go down drastically. There are many ways to hook live bait and each has its purposes and benefits.
Hooking a bait through the nostrils or jaw is one of the most popular ways to hook a bait. Hooking the bait this way allows it to swim naturally which is ideal for trolling or drifting offshore structures. Not only does this allow for a more natural appearance of the fish, but it will keep the bait from drowning.
Hooking a fish through the nostrils will cause the least harm to the bait, but is in a weaker area than through the bottom jaw to the top. Both positions allow the hook to be exposed which in turn will lead to easier hookups. This tactic works both smaller and larger baits.
This hook placement is ideal for kite fishing, but can also be used for trolling, drifting offshore, free lining, or even pitching the bait towards free-swimming fish like Cobia. Hooking baits this way allows the bait to have a lot of action and swim as if it is hurt, attracting more predators.
This style of rigging makes the bait swim downwards similar to a lipped plug. To keep the fish alive the longest, be sure not to put the hook too deep into the fish. As with all other methods, avoid too many recasts to reduce shock.
This placement is the ticket for getting the bait down into the water column near the bottom structure. This is the right tactic to use for stationary fishing on the bottom, jetties, piling/docks, or a seawall. Using a fishfinder rig you can keep the bait swimming at a preferred height off the bottom depending on the length of the leader.
Hooking a bait near the tail or anal fin is a great way to hook bait to get action out of it, and to manipulate it into specific areas. This works the best when fishing from stationary positions like an anchored boat, pier/docks, jetties, or for casting at free swimmers.
Hooking a bait this way will cause it to swim away from the spot you are fishing from. Reeling the bait back will cause the fish to panic and swim aggressively away, giving more action and causing it to swim harder and further away towards the ideal spot.
The final method of hooking bait is to run the hook through the bait’s anal vent and out through the gills. This is a perfect method for being anchored offshore on a reef or an inlet, or in a stationary boat position.
Since this will injure the fish, its life span will be shorter than most other hooking techniques, but this injury will cause the fish to move sporadically causing vibrations in the water. These vibrations will, in turn, lead to predatory fish being more attracted to the bait.
The first place you can hook a live shrimp is in the head or body section. The proper location is right between the eyes and the dark area that is their digestive system. You want to hook the shrimp from side to side about 1/8” deep measure from the top.
Use this method with many hooks, circle and J hooks will work well. It will allow the most natural and realistic looking action from the live shrimp. It’s best suited for floating shrimp in a current where you aren’t usually trying to cast a mile.
There are various ways to hook live shrimp by the tail, it is the most popular method. The simplest method would be to take a circle hook and hook the shrimp in the first section above the tail. Side to side or top to bottom will have the same results.
That method is great for quick rigging and casting in a pinch. Removing the tail in that method will also result in scents being released that will also attract fish. Once you remove the tail, this opens up a few more ways to hook shrimp.
After removing the tail, use a J hook to thread the hook up the tail of the shrimp and pop it out once halfway up the hook - usually around the 4th section of the tail. This is a great hooking method for casting to fish that may be a little further.
In that method, there's much more meat for the bard to cling to before your live shrimp would fly off. However, your live shrimp still has an exposed hook that in certain scenarios could cause issues. Let's look at a weedless approach.
To make this method weedless thread a J hook through the first tailless section and bring it to the hook eye. Spin the hook around and now hide the hook in the meat of the shrimps tail. Weedless is a safer bet from weeds and structure, but slightly more difficult to get a solid hookup, I’ll leave that decision to you.
Hooking live crabs for bait is a different ball game; their hard shells require a unique puncture. You must slowly twist the hook as you apply pressure to avoid cracking the shell. Aim for a section that is skinny and sticking out likely containing no inners, usually between two legs on one side right where it changes from legs to body.
Always puncture from below, bringing the hook through the top nice and easy. It’s a little tricky at first but after doing it a few times you will know how and when it feels right. Mastering this enables you to fish with a tough live bait not easily ripped off hooks by fish.
Whether you are rigging live bait or throwing artificial lures, make sure you stay protected on the water! What you wear fishing can make or break your next outing.
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FWC performed years of research before deciding to introduce this species. Besides the positive effects on the eco-systems, they provide excellent sport fishing opportunities. There are 15 different peacock bass species, but the butterfly peacock is the most prevalent in Florida.
FWC attempted to stock the speckled peacock bass, but they have not flourished like the butterfly peacock. To get scientific, the peacock bass is not a member of the bass family but part of the 1,600 plus tropical members of the cichlid family.
The peacock bass is similar in shape to the largemouth bass. Along its body, you will find iridescent hues of green, blue, and orange. You can also notice it has three distinct vertical black stripes. On its caudal fin, there is a black spot surrounded by a silver halo. There will often be many variations in colors and patterns from fish to fish.
During the breeding season, the mature males will grow a large lump on their head. The reason for this is unknown, but there has been much speculation. A fun trick when you catch one: gently rub the hump on their heads, it’ll make their spines stand up!
Any water colder than 60 degrees might kill the peacock bass. For that reason, you are unlikely to find them in any northern parts of Florida. The Florida canal systems rarely drop below 65 degrees because of the Biscayne Aquifer right below the surface. This has been the main reason many exotic species have survived colder than normal winters and the Peacock Bass is no exception.
However, they’re restricted to freshwater and cannot migrate into the brackish areas like some fish. They can accidentally get swept into salty water because of Florida’s spillways. Just like the popular largemouth bass, butterfly peacocks are typical ambush-predators and like to hang around structure and vegetation.
Recommended Guide: Capt. Patrick Smith (561) 503-0848.
Anglers who are targeting peacock bass can feel safe using light spinning tackle. It will help induce more strikes and will make the fight way more fun! Don’t worry, these are open water fighters and they won't typically wrap you around structure and cut your line. You want to target peacock bass during the daylight hours. You will find this beneficial if you're not a morning person: sleep in!
When targeting bedding fish always remember to only catch one fish and to try your best to return the fish to the bed. We do not want to disturb the reproductive process of peacock bass. Catching both fish will leave any eggs or young peacock bass vulnerable to prey. Also, we want to ensure that they produce as many babies as possible and they get bigger for us to all have more and bigger fish to catch.
The best-producing baits by far are small shiners around 2-3 inches. For a few bucks a dozen they are worth their price tenfold. Peacock bass will not let more than a few seconds pass before destroying a fresh shiner. Just remember, do nothing besides drop it in the water as close as you can to a peacock and let it do its thing.
Artificial lures will work as well and are more rewarding. Using something that resembles a frantic minnow fleeing or injured should produce. A Rapala husky jerk or Xrap are my go-to jerk baits to induce a reaction bite. Any topwater lure will provide great excitement and is my favorite way to fish for peacock bass.
You can use many of the same lures as you do for largemouth bass. The only distinction is that peacocks will not eat artificial worms (a popular largemouth bait).
For the fly enthusiast, poppers and small streamers should provoke a bite. Be ready, these fish are exceptional fighters. If the fish are bedding, use a fly with a quick sink rate and plop it right onto the bed. A peacock's first instinct is to attack so it can protect the bed. My go-to fly is a clouser with medium eyes, always seems to do the trick.
Check out our favorite peacock bass lures.
If you are looking for specific locations, we suggest you look at FWC’s southeast canal guide. They have useful maps and locations available for both boaters and non-boaters. If you are looking for a public lake, may we suggest the Lake Ida chain. The hidden gems are the private lakes contained within neighborhood gates. Start asking your friends and family if you can fish within their gated community.
From experience, when fishing other lakes, make sure you are not trespassing. This could cause some angry neighbors yelling at you, or worse, police being called. Always park your car in safe places not susceptible to towing or tickets (also from experience). There are spots just as good as the dangerous or risky ones, you might just have to walk/drive a little further but it’s worth the peace of mind.
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To accurately tackle snook we have to know some key characteristics regarding their lifestyle. For example, if there is one thing you should take away from this article is that snook love cover. It provides safety for themselves, their offspring, and a ton of food.
Snook have a broad appetite and will survive on whatever is abundant in the area. They don’t have large sharp teeth so it’s safe to lip them. However, they have large gill plates that you have to take into account when planning tackle and handling these fish.
The good news is most spinning rods will do the trick for snook. You want a solid inshore rod with a little backbone in case you hook a giant. For an all-around setup, I would spool my reel up with 15# braid and a 30# leader.
It’s important to remember to match your fishing conditions. You should lighten your set up if you plan to sight fish on the flats and need a little more finesse. Likewise, beef it up if you want to float live bait under bridges and will battle strong current.
When targeting snook on fly, I would recommend an 8-9wt. You want more accuracy characteristics in this rod vs distance and strength. Targeting snook often requires casts into tight cover and you need to be as accurate as possible to avoid getting caught up.
I like to scale my bite tippet up a little for snook. Although, there isn’t much you can do if they wrap you in their gill plates. I find a 25-30# bite tippet will be the best defense without sacrificing too much stealth from your presentation.
I think the best lures for snook are a mixture of plastics and hard baits alike. Snook love shrimp! A D.O.A. or Gulp Shrimp lightly jerked across their path will trigger reaction bites all day.
We can not forget big fish, eat little fish, and snook are no different. A lightly weighted paddle tail swimbait like a Gambler EZ will have multiple snook fighting to eat.
Topwater baits will provide the most exhilarating eats. A Skitter walk or Super Spook will cause some insane topwater blow-ups. You will never forget the explosive eat of a giant snook smashing topwater lures.
When in doubt, I would resort to a bucktail jig. It is hands down the best search bait for snook and other species alike. Slowly and steadily bouncing a jig off the bottom will trigger reaction bites from snook that wouldn't otherwise eat.
No live bait is better for snook than live shrimp. For ease and productivity, shrimp will produce time and time again. Snook will also eat just about any baitfish. Small mullets are easy to find and catch yourself, plus they’re irresistible to snook.
The best flies for snook vary from location to location. However, the staples still apply in any region. A clouser will always get the job done and is a good search bait for a new territory where you may not know the depth. Another baitfish pattern that snook can’t resist is an EP baitfish pattern. Although keep in mind that these flies stay high in the water column.
To complete your snook fly box, you must include crustaceans. The mantis shrimp is a great simple shrimp fly that will have a school fighting for your fly. For slow-moving laid up snook, a black mantis shrimp slowly bumped along will trigger that lazy snooks instinct to feed.
Take the tips from this article and use it as a base of information. More importantly, get out to the water with this in mind and start building your knowledge on snook and your surrounding areas. There's so much that will vary based on a specific location, and learning your area will take you from novice to master in no time.
When targeting snook at night you have to remember you’re fishing based on structure not on visibility. The best structure you will find at night are bridges, large docks, and rocky areas. I would recommend focusing on live bait when fishing at night. You will most likely be dealing with a strong current so it would be difficult to get a lure in the right position and work it properly.
If you’re looking for a guide in South FL for snook, look no further than Captain Jake Leon (305) 794-6691. He won’t charge you an arm and leg for a full day of fishing and he has the youth and energy to push you around the flats on his skiff all day.
For the most current snook fishing season and regulations please refer to the official FWC Snook Page. It is very important to make sure you’re licensed to fish in the state of Florida and follow all the regulations while on the water.
It’s not uncommon to catch dozens of redfish in a single outing when the bite is on. I consider fishing in Florida for reds to be one of the most exciting during the warm months. Especially when they are in the shallows near the shoreline.
Redfish, also known as red’s, channel bass, and red drum, are on every stretch of coastline in the state of Florida. Anglers from all over the world flock to the Sunshine State once the bite gets hot. In late autumn giant reds will viciously strike at almost anything in reach during this time. This is my favorite time to throw top-water lures.
During the colder months, redfish move out into the deeper channels (hence the name channel bass). Once you’ve fought and landed a trophy over 20 pounds, you’ll understand why this species of fish is atop the list of “favorites” for anglers of all skill levels and backgrounds.
Most fishermen know redfish as a “shallow water” species because they are most often found in water less than 10 feet in depth. Great spots to look for and find reds are usually where rivers spill into the ocean, flats and marshes, oyster bars, and just about any bays or sounds in the state of Florida.
For experienced anglers who have targeted redfish for many years, it doesn’t take much investigation to quickly seek out where they are schooled up, and where to find huge redfish that will test your skill with a rod and reel.
During colder weather, you can usually bet that redfish will move away from the shore and venture into deeper channels and around reefs or shipwrecks. They will slowly move in closer to the shallows once the weather warms and you can count on the Grand Finale of red fishing to take place in late October, November, and December.
Years ago, before heavy regulations, people would come to Florida from all corners of the United States and load their boats with redfish. We hail them as one of the tastiest species of game fish in the world and there are countless recipes on the best ways to filet and cook redfish.
It didn’t take long for people to realize that Florida’s natural population of redfish were being depleted by commercial fishermen to fulfill the high demand for redfish from the many seafood restaurants all over the southeastern United States.
One of the main reasons redfish became so scarce was the ease with which most anglers can catch huge numbers of reds in a short amount of time. You can catch redfish on live bait, artificial lures and sometimes probably a bare hook. Let’s inspect the best ways to catch redfish in Florida.
Perhaps the most popular method of catching redfish in the Sunshine State is by using artificial lures during the late fall and early winter when they are nailing top-water and other types of bait in the shallows around the state.
Since redfish is a species of bass, you can’t go wrong using anything that remotely resembles a baitfish to catch reds, especially when they are in the shallows during the late season. A wide range of deep diving plugs can catch redfish that are hanging out in deep channels during the cold weather months, but you can also target them with nearly any kind of lure you want during the warmer months.
Plastic baits and jigs are effective on redfish just about any time of year. However, I and most anglers who fish for them think red fishing is most exciting when using top-water lures late in the year.
Redfish will annihilate anything that includes poppers, spoons, buzz baits and everything else top-water during the late season. This is the main reason they are such a popular fish for sportsmen to target.
There’s nothing like watching a giant redfish home in on a top-water plug and strike with amazing force and precision. Couple that with their surprising ability to bend a rod and yank off half a spool of line in no time and it will become clear why reds are the king of the shallow water fisheries in Florida.
As you might expect, you can have plenty of success fishing for redfish in Florida using live bait. Reds will hit just about anything that normal shallow-water game fish go after such as live shrimp, minnows, and especially mullet.
Redfish are so easy to catch on live bait rigged just about any way you want. Novice anglers will find great success using any of the baits listed above.
If you plan to do some bottom fishing when redfish are deeper around reefs, you can catch them on a simple drop shot or bottom fishing rig with cut bait like mullet or cigar minnows.
Most seasoned anglers know that there are some specific tips you’ll want to stick with for catching reds throughout the year and most will agree on a few tried-and-true methods.
If you’re planning a trip to go red fishing in Florida soon, I hope these tips are useful to experience the rush of red fishing in the Sunshine State!
Don't forget to check out our Long Sleeve Redfish Shirt!
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Flounders, also known as flukes or flatfish, have a reputation for viciously attacking any type of baitfish or other creature that comes near them with impressive veracity. Their body’s shape allows them to gain considerable traction when pulling against a reel and fishing for this species can be surprisingly enjoyable when you’re looking for something out of the norm that you can still throw into the skillet.
Despite their floundering reputation among most sport fishermen, flatfish can actually grow to be quite large, and knowing how to fish for flounder can lead you to catch a monster flatfish. A trophy flounder might tip the scales at more than 20 pounds and would be photo-worthy for anyone, regardless of their hideous looks.
There are a few schools of thought on how to catch flounder. Finding and catching them consistently really depends on what time of year you’re fishing as the water temperature dictates their behavior to an extent.
During warm months in early spring or summer, flukes are known to stick close to the shoreline. Beach-goers often get excited when they almost step on a flounder that’s carefully hidden beneath the sandy bottom only to watch it dash away, leaving a cloud of sand behind.
Flounder fishing can be quite easy for most anglers during this time. Most people fishing in the surf have probably caught a flatfish or two when targeting other, larger species of game fish near the shoreline.
However, when the water temperature drops below about 60 degrees, you’ll have a tougher time finding and catching these fish as they will move into deeper water and hang out near shipwrecks and reefs.
When targeting flounder, you’ll want to be geared toward light tackle. If you have an open-faced bass fishing rig spooled with 10-pound test line, you’re already set up to hit the water in search of these fish lying beneath the sandy bottom.
Flatfish anglers will use a drop-shot style rig with a rounded sinker to avoid getting snagged on anything. The great thing about flounder is they are not known to be picky eaters. Most folks will rig their hooks with live shrimp or minnows, but many fishermen have reported high success rates with artificial baits as well.
If you plan to specifically target these species of game fish, you’ll want to stick to finger mullet, pinfish, croakers, or menhaden. You can’t go wrong by catching your own bait at low tide.
Shrimp-style artificials work best when slowly dragged across the bottom where you expect to find flounder. For live bait setups, you’ll want to give the fish a few seconds to chew before reeling them in. And remember, there’s no need to be too aggressive with these fish, simply wind the slack down tight and lift up on the rod tip to get the fight going.
The key to consistently catching flukes, whether you’re using artificial or live bait, is to work it slowly. According to most flounder fishing experts, the slower the better.
You can find flounder on just about any stretch of coastline from Maine to Florida, as well as the Gulf Coast. They are especially popular in North Carolina and the Atlantic side of Florida.
If you want to know how to catch flatfish like the guides that do it on a consistent basis, you’ll want to think like a predator fish that relies on ambush to score its prey. Seek out high traffic areas where lots of small baitfish usually swim through.
Flounder are known for staying close to river areas, especially ones that offer structure or ledges where they can better conceal themselves. They’ll burrow down into the bottom and use their eyes to watch for approaching prey to swim within striking distance.
Some anglers have hit paydirt when it comes to fluke fishing. Ask any reputable fishing guide who routinely targets them and they’ll tell you that ledges are key when it comes to finding the best spots for flounder fishing.
If the water is especially clear, you can often see the outlines or imprints where flatfish have been lying in the sand, which should give you the drop on them the next time you plan to fish that area.
They usually hang out in small schools or groups, so if you catch one, you can bank on the fact that there are others nearby. You should be targeting ledges, so make sure you cast parallel to the drop-offs to keep your bait in the strike zone longer. They will hit the bait as it falls when you’re bouncing it along the bottom.
When you feel one begins to bite, make sure you give it ample time to “chew” the bait or you’ll risk losing the fish. Once you feel one nibbling, you’ll simply wind down and lift up on the rod tip.
Flounder are not known for being the toughest pound-for-pound fighters, but you should expect them to pull rather hard at the beginning right after they’re hooked. The fight usually doesn’t last very long before the fluke will tire out and give in.
Follow these tips and tactics on how to fish for flounder and you’ll be catching them on a consistent basis before you know it!
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The deep-sea can be more challenging, and you could chase some much larger and stronger fish. I recommend a couple of specialty items to prepare you for your next fishing charter.
I find fly fishing and inshore fishing to be very precise. The clothing you take with you must prepare you to have fun and catch fish. I find these unique clothes equip me for every fishing trip on the flats.
I think it's safe to say when women plan to go fishing they gravitate towards wearing a bikini or other swimsuit. Although this would create the best Instagram photo, it will not protect you from the sun. I recommend women follow the same guide as stated above.
However, there could be a happy medium. I’ve seen a ton of photos of ladies fishing with proper fishing attire and one difference; a bikini bottom instead of shorts. This will keep you cool, comfortable, and photo-ready to show off your big catch.
If you’re thinking about bringing your whole family along on your next trip but don’t know what kids should wear, don't stress it. This is not a reason to keep your kids from enjoying a fishing trip. I would follow the same guide above, just get fishing shirts specifically for kids among all the other pieces of clothing.
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Because of that, they react instinctively, using their strength to attack quickly. When working any bait for peacock bass, you want it to move quickly to induce that reaction bite and give them little time to think about it.
Catching a peacock bass with a topwater lure will easily be the most fun approach. However, it won’t be the most productive. You won’t catch as many fish because peacock bass are mostly searching for prey subsurface.
Plus, topwater lures have a low hook up ratio because of missed eats. With that in mind, I would recommend throwing a topwater lure after you’ve already caught a couple of peacocks.
The Hedon Zara Spook is a classic walk the dog topwater plug that will call the attention to any nearby peacock bass. Any color variation with white or silver (for more flash) on the bottom is ideal. Fish and frogs have white undersides and would look like a perfect meal to a peacock bass.
To produce the most fish when targeting peacock bass, I would have a jerk bait tied on. The sporadic movement coupled with flashy colors is irresistible to most peacock bass.
Rapala has nailed it with the Husky Jerk and the X- Rap. Both subsurface jerk baits continue to produce time and time again. I would stay stocked up on the gold/black or silver/black as my go-to. However, any color variation with a light or flashy belly and a dark back will get the job done.
Rarely, peacock bass will be in a stagnant mood. They may deny everything you throw at them, leaving you extremely frustrated. The counterpunch is to toss a jig and bounce it across their face.
Although they aren’t looking to eat, that up and down movement right in their face triggers their instinct to attack. Bucktail jigs are my go-to. A white or pink paired with a little flash is one of the best color lures for peacock bass period!
Fly fishing has drastically evolved over the last few years. However, when targeting peacock bass, the principles are still the same. You want a baitfish pattern that has bright colors and a little flash tied on to induce that reaction bite.
The clouser is a staple pattern worldwide and proves its fame with peacock bass too. A simple white and chartreuse clouser with medium dumbbell eyes and a little flash will have the peacock bass fighting for your fly.
The little added weight in the dumbbell eyes will give you the best of both worlds between a jerk bait and a jig. With that mixture, it could easily be the best way to target peacock bass. I will leave that to you to decide.
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May to September is the time in which tarpon breed which is around the same time as their migration along the coast. Although the fish itself favors inshore waters, migration leads it further out. The tarpon will travel in a school along the coast until reaching it’s destination. Often times these fish will not eat until arriving where it is they intend to be.
The most common place in which fishers have caught the tarpon is off the shores of the Key West in Florida. The state record for largest tarpon weighed in at 243 pounds. However, the world record tarpon caught was found in Sierra Leone, Africa and weighed a mighty 283 pounds.
Tarpon, being tropical fish, have to stay within warm waters. At the mere temperature of 55 degrees, they begin to die. That leaves no surprise as to why they migrate along the Floridian coast, having some of the warmest waters on the planet. In any case, tarpon are said to be relatively tasty and a beauty to see in the water, so take that vacation time you’ve saved up and hit the beaches of Florida, you might just caught the next record tarpon, if you’re lucky.
]]>This is not the first time an issue with polluted water has escalated, causing larger problems to occur. We saw it before with the oil spill in the Gulf of Mexico, making it nearly impossible to fish in those regions, but also damaging much of the area’s marine life and surrounding areas. Even in the past water pollution was a big topic issue. In the state of Maryland where the Chesapeake Bay runoff has killed a large pollution of crabs and fish and damaged a significant part of that area’s ecosystem, the state had to mandate a rain tax. This tax decreed that whenever it rained, a fee would be taken from Maryland residents in order to try and restore and preserve the Bay’s waters.
Evidence of water pollution is nothing new as the demographics will show you. The problem lies a little closer to home. Our use of pesticides, dumping waste into waterways, littering, oil leaks and spills, toxic deposits from factories and so much more goes on to destroy our beautiful ecosystems. Unfortunately, humankind is more concerned with technological pursuits than persevering our home and the homes of others.
If the problem is not resolved it will only worsen resulting in a continuation of crises. The water in the Okeechobee Lake needs cleaning if we are to see the return of healthy aquatic life. Fish repopulation will shrink rapidly if not and as we should know; this chain effect will reach to other parts of the waters. With luck, the problem will be addressed early on, but it is still our part to become more aware of these on growing issues and try not to be contributors to them.
]]>Shrimp are a popular form of bait because they can attract a large array of game due to their active movements. In order to properly use shrimp as bait, we must rig it, but it isn’t that simple for there are multiple ways in which to do this.
The first way in which to rig a shrimp is to place the hook into the carapace. The carapace, for those who do not know, is the center space between the two dark spots upon a shrimps head. This is important because should you miss place the hook and it were to jab either of the two spots, you would be damaging the pancreas or stomach, depending on which spot you hit. Thus, killing the shrimp all too soon and ruining your bait. The hook should be strung in crosswise just below the surface of the shell, in between the two spots for maxim result.
The second way to rig is to hoist the hook up under the chin of the shrimp, ease it in and pull it up and out of the front of the face. This technique is supposed to allow for further distance casting with fast paced line retrieval.
Going on to method three of rigging you will need to remove the tail fin of the shrimp in order to hook it. Once that has been done, you will maneuver the hook in and up the cut off section of the tail until the hook is secure within the body of the shrimp. This version is a preferable lure in areas of water that contains dense vegetation. It will make the process less painstaking as the bait will not collect as many weeds nor will it become stuck quiet as often as a normal bait would in grassier waters.
If you want to use live shrimp to do some drift fishing, you will need to poke the hook onto either side of the shrimp tail, thus, piercing the shell until it comes through to the other side. This will allow a visible hook end and for the shrimp to kick freely as bait.
The fifth and last way we will learn how to rig a shrimp today is by, just like in version three, cutting off the tail fin and placing the hook inside the body. The difference in this rig as opposed to example three is that we will not keep the hook covered by the body of the shrimp, but instead expose it on the outside by rotating the hook and poking it out the underbelly of the shrimp.
After learning these five ways of rigging a shrimp, all you pros and amateur fishermen alike may now get out there and have some fun on the water. Stay safe and happy fishing!
]]>Just look out onto the coast of Florida during any month of the year, and you will see hundreds of tournament and recreational boats alike all trying to score the big catch. A majority of the boats will be targeting pelagic species such as the Kingfish (King Mackerel), Dolphin (Mahi Mahi), and Wahoo. There are two main ways to effectively target these fish. The first method is trolling. Tried and true, everyone knows that trolling can catch fish. However, live baiting has become the preferred tactic for many anglers. This would beg the question, what is the best live bait? To keep it simplistic we have narrowed it down to two. The Goggle Eye and the Blue Runner. Of course there are many more species of bait fish that could be used as live bait, but these just happen to be the most common/popular.
Blue runners would rank as one of the easiest baitfish to locate and catch. Unlike other species, they can be caught throughout the day. Many other baitfish can only be found within small windows of time. An extremely effective way to catch runners in large numbers is to fish a shallow structure with a sabiki rig. It is best to do this while chumming the water. This can really get them fired up and biting on all cylinders. If you don’t have nearby structure that you can fish, try trolling a small spoons in depths between 20-50 feet of water. Although this method isn’t as effective as fishing structure, it should produce most of the time.
There is one fish that blue runners attract probably better than any other baitfish. That would be the Kingfish. Many tournament kingfish anglers swear by these hardy baits. It is quite common to hear they are the ticket to the “BIG ONE.” Runners tend to outlive other live baits. They are extremely durable baits and easy to keep alive. Put one down deep on the the downrigger and bump troll is over reefs and wrecks. Its chances of getting eaten by something is almost guaranteed. We recommend using a stinger rig with #7 wire to prevent kings and wahoos from shopping your bait or line in half.
Gogs are not that difficult to catch contrary to what you might hear. Anglers tend to keep quiet when it comes to catching them. Because of how valuable they are to the professionals who make a living selling them, you won’t get much helpful info on them. It's all about locating the fish, and waiting for the bite to turn on. It requires a great deal of patience and expect to lose a bit of sleep. They will eventually start chewing. When they do, you need to be ready to catch as many as possible. The bite will shut off just as fast as it turned on. They can be located along coastal structures like piers, buoys and jetties. Additionally they can be found in areas with wrecks, reefs and rocky bottoms. Depth ranges from extremely shallow up to 500 feet deep. Should you not be able to find these golden nuggets, be prepared to cough up 80$ a dozen!
When I think of using goggle eyes for bait, one thing comes to mind. Kite Fishing. It’s like these big eyed baits have special fish attracting powers when dangling on the surface. Most well known for being the bait of choice among top sailfish teams, goggle eyes are just as enticing to kingfish, dolphin, wahoo and BIG tunas. A live gog will give you the best chance of hooking up with a yellow fin tuna if there is any around. Goggle eyes are best rigged by bridling them using a rubber band. This allows them to swim more naturally and gives a more natural feel to sailfish. This isn’t really necessary when targeting meat fish.
If I was forced to use one species for the rest of my fishing life, I would have to choose a goggle eye. But it's really up to you. Remember to consider all the different variables. You might not be able to catch one kind on a certain day, or the fish just might not be interested. Also, I always tell anglers to use what they are confident in. It helps to talk to some of the charter captains in you area to gain some local knowledge.
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